No Sleep 'til Sydney- Cape Breton Part I

I had a feeling the overnight ferry ride from Newfoundland was going to be rough without a cabin, but it ended up being worse than I thought. While we were able to buy reserved reclining seats in a semi-darkened room, giant TV screens all over the place ran silent news and weather the whole time and there were at least five different people snoring (loudly!) at any given time. There was just no way to get comfortable and even with my earphones in the snorers won out. Also, note to self: don't eat fried chicken wings with hot, hot sauce right before you try to go to sleep in a ferry chair.

Jen enjoying a deep and restful sleep

The giant ferries take about 1.5 hours to load/unload the passenger cars- semis take even longer- and when we pulled on last night we were directed down a ramp into the lowest parking level. After that deck was full, the big metal plate closed and sealed us in, and more cars and trucks pulled in on the deck above us. 

We knew that meant we'd be the last to get off the boat today, and it was at least 30 minutes after docking before we were called to go back to the car. Then more waiting while cars rolled above us and finally the hatch was opened. We dragged our puffy-eyed, rumply asses off the boat and pointed the car to a breakfast place on the way to Cape Breton Highlands National Park.

Mother Nature has been our friend just about every day, and after some morning clouds and misty rain the sun came out just as we got onto the Cabot Trail which runs as a loop around the upper portion of Cape Breton Island. I'd read lots of posts about which way to go around and what were the best hikes, but in the end our lack of sleep made us decide for east coast (closer to Sydney where we're staying for two nights) and an easy-ish trail. Even before we got to the park proper the water views were incredible and once we got on the actual roadway they were amazing! The coastal roads along Newfoundland's western coast are mostly all right at the shoreline, with the mountains rising up beyond. The Cabot Trail wraps around the upper portion of the mountains, so the views are completely different. Hairpin switchbacks, sheer drops off the road, and plenty of opportunity for disaster.

We stopped at the Park Visitor Center in Ingonish and then hiked the Middle Head Trail. The trail starts at the edge of the Keltic Lodge which was built in the 1930s for the Canadian park service as a golf course and resort, and is apparently a destination on this side of Cape Breton. The trail followed a narrow wooded peninsula with beautiful water views on both sides.

After the hike we continued north to Neils Harbour where the Cabot Trail turns west and starts to wrap around to the west side. We ended up at a tiny take-out kitchen called the Chowder House which we only found because we stopped to look at a lighthouse. Best seafood chowder ever!

We drove back the same way we went up and are planning to hit the western piece of the Cabot Trail tomorrow. Sydney is a pretty small town but it seems like Manhattan after Newfoundland. The fiddle is HIGHLY celebrated here as a symbol of the area's Scottish immigrants.

After an early dinner headed off to bed to catch up on sleep and be ready for more Cape Breton nature and culture tomorrow!